The baby-boomer fashion crisis

Carol Hymowitz
Wall Street Journal

A friend of mine who can't reconcile himself to having recently turned 60 showed up at his birthday bash in a tie-dyed T-shirt he'd worn to rock 'n' roll concerts 35 years ago and a black leather jacket with lots of silver studs. He tried to conceal his bald spot by combing it over with hair he still has. He looked ridiculous - and older than he is.

With the first of the 78 million baby boomers now turning 60, a once-hip generation of men has a problem: looking younger and with-it - but not foolish - as they begin to use senior discounts. The women in their lives cover gray hair with dye and wrinkles with makeup, but those tactics are too girly for most guys.

What they need to do is change their eyeglasses to a smaller style and get a pair of brown leather shoes that go with almost everything. Wearing slimmer, less boxy suits also helps, as does a splash of color.

What today's men have going for them is that many are fitter and more youthful-looking than their fathers were at their age, thanks to hours of working out or doing active sports from mountain biking to scuba diving. Even with toned muscles, however, they know they will look silly in fashions aimed at college kids and aren't sure how to update their wardrobes. Heavier men have even more of a problem.

Not surprisingly, fashion designers and retailers are beginning to cater to middle-aged men's desire for clothing that is hip and sophisticated. Paul Stuart, a New York retailer, recently began selling a side-vented jacket with a gently sloped shoulder that isn't tight but has a stylish, lean look that can be worn by men who've added some extra pounds. And Under Armour, a Baltimore maker of stretchy exercise clothes, is doing a brisk business with boomer men, some of whom wear the company's shorts as girdles under trousers.

Even conservative Brooks Brothers sees a market in slimmer, more colorful styles for older guys. It now sells a line of $800-to-$1,000 suits that are cut narrower than its traditional boxy style. The pinstripes on some of its navy-blue suits are light blue, lavender and other colors instead of white. Its shirts come in two fits: standard and a slimmer model. And last spring, it sold polo shirts in 30 new colors, including light orange and apple green.

Boomers "want their clothes to have an attitude - and we want to address what's been a very untapped market," says Lou Amendola, merchandising vice president.

But what looks classy on one 50- or 60-something guy might look awful on another. Here's a look at how to stay stylish while growing older:

FIT
Shirts that are one or two sizes too big and have so much extra material around the waistline that they bunch up over your belt add weight to your middle. The same goes for oversized jackets and trousers. Clothing that is too large may feel comfortable but makes you look heavier.
Better way: Shirts that fit trimly across your chest and back but can be easily buttoned should be worn with jackets that narrow at the waist rather than looking boxy. You'll look taller and more youthful than in a boxier style. Similarly, flat-front trousers with straight legs are more slimming and flattering on most men than pleated pants.

FABRIC
Leather pants may work for Mick Jagger and other aging rock stars, but they're too young for most boomer men - and show every bulge you have. Leave them on the rack for 20-somethings.

Better way: Leather jackets add pizzazz to an older man's wardrobe, especially if they're tailored and cut like blazers instead of motorcycle jackets. They can be worn over jeans or trousers.

EYEGLASSES
Large lenses (24- or 26-millimeter size) were in vogue several years ago, but these cover most of your face and create a droopy appearance. That's the last thing anyone with a sagging jaw line needs.

Better way: Smaller, 18-millimeter lenses can instantly erase 10 years from your face. And thanks to new technology, smaller frames now can be fitted with bifocals. You should try rimless styles or lightweight frames in thin titanium or even a modish color such as red. "You don't want anything too wide, which can accentuate your nose, or too narrow, which doesn't cover your eyes," says Jeff Press, operations manager of Morganthal Frederick's, a New York eyeglass retailer.

SHOES
Penny loafers or oxfords with tassels on the ties can date you. "After people look at your eyes, they look at your feet, and if you're wearing the same style shoes that you've worn for 10 years, you're out of it," says Drew Sisselman, an Atlanta image and style consultant.

Better way: A slip-on or tie style that is contemporary can "freshen everything else you're wearing," says Mr. Sisselman. And Kenneth Cole and Nike's Cole Haan unit have trendy styles with comfortable, cushioned heels. Boomer men also can wear low-heeled leather boots or Western boots with jeans. A pair of black leather shoes, with leather soles instead of rubber soles, is essential, but so is a pair in brown, which can be worn with navy, gray and khaki.

COLOR
Black sweaters are hip whatever your age, but black suits can look funereal on anyone over 35.

Better way: Navy and charcoal gray are more flattering on most men, but rather than sticking to the same tried-and-true solid colors, experiment with textured fabrics and unusual color combinations - gray with a subtle stripe, paired with a maroon, dark blue, green or lavender shirt.

HAIR
If you've got a full head of hair, flaunt it. But if you're going bald, don't try combing over your bald spot.

Better way: The thinner your hair gets, the shorter you should cut it. Short hair accentuates your features.