Sneaky business

White gym shoes with a suit? We think not.

By Christopher Muther
Boston Globe

BOSRTON - In ‘‘Working Girl,’’ Melanie Griffith’s white Reeboks paired with polyblend powersuits were inexcusable but almost forgivable given that her character in the 1988 film bridged and tunneled her way from Staten Island to Manhattan every day — and pumps are not always the most reliable form of transportation. But what worked for Griffith in 1988 does not work for men in 2006. On any given day in the Financial District, there are a disheartening number of businessmen committing the unspeakable act of pairing white gym sneakers with their Brooks Brothers suits as they stroll to and from the office. Beware, the big-haired ghost of Tess McGill has risen, and her fashion sense is haunting the men of Boston.

‘‘White sneakers should never be worn outside of a gym. Never,’’ says Debi Greenberg, president of Louis Boston. ‘‘Did I mention never? If your dress shoes are that uncomfortable, you can buy really comfortable rubber-soled shoes.’’

Greenberg doesn’t dismiss the idea of pairing suits and sneakers but stresses that this combination needs to be approached with some thought, not in the higgledy-piggledy style regularly observed on the commuter rail or in after-work watering holes around the city. Boxy two-button suits do not lend themselves to showcasing Pumas. The suit-sneaker combo, if done correctly, requires a slim-fit jacket with flat-front pants (pleated pants should always be considered public enemy number one). But more importantly, Greenberg says these outfits require attitude, a bit of swagger, and a willingness to experiment. If your cubicle farm frowns upon this sort of freedom of fashion expression, then stick to wingtips or a traditional, comfortable dress shoe.

Gary Ritacco, owner of Uniform, recently devoted a window display at his South End men’s store to the joys of pairing sneakers and suits. Ritacco, whose lanky frame and dark-rimmed glasses are an ideal fit for the artsy suit-sneaker combination, has long been an advocate of business casual, but not the kind that involves mock turtlenecks and stain-resistant khakis. To see how it is done properly, follow the example of savvy style experts such as designer and talk show host Isaac Mizrahi, who has perfected the blending of formal and casual.

‘‘White gym sneakers and business suits on men and women is definitely not good,’’ Ritacco says. ‘‘Sometimes people just don’t know when to draw the line.’’